The secret to the perfect Machu Picchu adventure

Go to the Chimú city of Chan Chan on the coast! Try the ruins at Kuélap! Have you seen what the Moche accomplished at Trujillo?
No matter how much Peru tries to promote alternative archaeological sites in the country, people still want to see Machu Picchu at least once in their life. It’s a genuine bucket-list classic, up there with Angkor Wat and the Pyramids. Its “discovery” by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and the ­nickname of “Lost City of the Incas” have imbued the site with a mythical quality that exerts a pull on travellers from all corners of the world.
But it is also very beautiful. Located on a saddle in the Peruvian Andes, between the peaks of Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu, it’s framed by rocky slopes and subtropical rain-­forests, and is often half-shrouded by swirling clouds. When the mists part and the sun breaks through, the stonework glows and the whole ensemble looks glorious. Not for nothing are two of the most famous features the Inti Punku or “sun gate” and the Inti Watana or “hitching post of the sun”. 
Machu Picchu has been surveyed, dug and analysed in more depth than perhaps any other Inca site, yet it remains mysterious. It was obviously selected because it was close to the gods and defensible. We know its functions were partly residential and partly religious. But we are still ­guessing about its cosmic positioning and its academic importance to the Incas. This all adds to the story.
During the pandemic, annual ­visitor numbers dropped from more than 1.5 million to 270,000 in 2020, and as tourists return it seems the Peruvian government isn’t sure how best to grow its honeypot site. Talk of a glass walkway being installed, and the development of a controversial new airport at Chinchero, 19 miles north of Cuzco, have raised concerns about sustainability. Yet there is now a daily limit of 3,400 visitors, plus restrictions on entering without a guide, while four pre-arranged ­circuits and a new hike up a peak called Huchuy Picchu have been established to lessen the crowds.
Notwithstanding these issues, Machu Picchu is as in demand as ever. It’s a target destination, a climax to any trip. So my main tip is to slow down your arrival and enjoy the build-up. Stay in Cuzco for a few days and see its magnificent archaeological treasures. Spend a night or two at Urubamba in the Sacred Valley. See the museums and markets, meet locals at sacred or secular sites, learn about traditional costumes, farming and weaving, and the ruins of Ollantaytambo, Pisac, Moray and Mara. Hire a good local guide who speaks fluent English. All this, ideally before entering Machu Picchu, will make the experience deeper and subtler and, in the end, more magical. Afterwards, enjoy the train ride through the Sacred ­Valley – and, of course, go off to ­Trujillo, Chan Chan and up to Kuélap  to see the competition.

What to see

This is the main site, which Unesco and Peruvian authorities call the ­“Historical Sanctuary”. Machu Picchu means “old mountain” in the Quechua language. The site is a 550-year-old citadel built by the most advanced – and in Peru, the last – major pre-­Columbian society in the spectacular setting of a saddle between two ­forest-clad Andean peaks that has been preserved enough to be ­recognisable as a city. It’s high (7,973ft above sea level) but lower than Cuzco, so most people arrive somewhat acclimatised. The site, including an adjoining wilderness and forest area, covers some 116 square miles. Four hours is plenty to explore the ruins, which are about the size of a village. 
The verdant valley of the Urubamba River is sacred to indigenous people because of its many Inca-era ­monumental sites. Three towns are well worth a visit: Pisac (famous for its markets on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday), tourist-free Huarán, and pretty Yucay. Urubamba has excellent high-end hotels, including Tambo del Inka, Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba and Sol y Luna. The Explora lodge is at Urquillos, just east of the Urubamba.
There are interesting Inca ruins at these sites. Moray is an agricultural complex, featuring innovative circular terraces, Maras is a salt mine, and Pisac boasts a large site spread over a mountainside.
Trains depart from Cuzco’s main ­station, San Pedro, or from Poroy on the outskirts. Two firms operate, each offering four different classes of ­service. PeruRail runs Vistadome, Expedition, Sacred Valley and Hiram Bingham trains (owned by hotel group Belmond). Inca Rail has the Voyager, the 360º, the First Class and the Private. Do you want to sit down, relax and observe the landscape or would you prefer live music and a pisco sour? Do you want to go all the way by train or split the ­journey between a bus and a train? Take a look at their websites before deciding, and book at the same time as you reserve your ticket for the site.
The so-called “Classic” trail takes four days and runs from the ­unromantic-sounding Km82 marker on the rail line to Machu Picchu’s sun gate. It’s only 26 miles, but is quite tough going. You can’t walk the Inca Trail without a local guide. It makes sense to book a package trip of any kind well in advance via a British-based tour ­operator, as they will protect you in the event of cancellations or delays in ­setting off due to weather or, say, a landslide. A two-day (7.5 miles) trail is a popular ­alternative. There are limits of 500 ­persons per day for the four-day trek and 250 persons per day for the two-day trek, including porters and cooks.
Two good – if strenuous – longer hikes are Salkantay (46 miles; 4-6 days) or via the Choquequirao Inca site (47 miles; 4-5 days). The Lares trek is a two- or three-day, high-altitude hike,  starting near the village Lares, ­approximately 40 miles north of Cuzco and 35 miles east of Machu ­Picchu. There are no visitor-number ­restrictions on these hikes.

When to go

Machu Picchu’s peak season is during July and August. It’s never totally dry in the Andean foothills, so there’s always a chance of showers. November to April is the rainy season, with ­January and February being the ­wettest months, so the shoulders of these – the actual months of November and April – are recommended times to visit.
The Inca Trail closes every February for maintenance work. Machu Picchu remains open. 
There are lots of festivals and saints’ days in the Sacred Valley. Inti Raymi, the ancient Inca Festival of the Sun, is held annually around June 21-24, the Winter Solstice. At this time, Cuzco gets especially busy.

How to get there

Most people arrive in Cuzco by plane from Lima. There are also flights from Arequipa, Juliaca (close to Lake ­Titicaca) and Puerto Maldonado (for the Amazon/Tambopata region). Trains run from Arequipa and Puno to Cuzco and buses from Lima and other cities. There is no road from Cuzco to Machu Picchu, but vans run to a hydroelectric power plant to the west. 
A frequent bus runs from Aguas Calientes (Machupicchu Pueblo), the closest town (and railway station), up to the site entrance. A return ticket costs $24 (£19) and the journey, up an impressive series of hairpin bends, takes 20 to 25 minutes. Officially, no one is allowed to visit the ruins ­without a guide, but in practice ­independent visitors are allowed in.

When to book

As early as possible. 

Insider tips

Acclimatise. Cuzco often comes as a surprise to people. It’s at 3,399m (11,152 feet) above sea-level and, being a city, is busy and polluted. Walk slowly, drink a lot of water and enjoy three or more days here before going off on any hikes.
If you stay take the train to Aguas Calientes, and back to Cuzco, you’ll miss the Sacred Valley sites. Consider taking a bus tour on your way in and the train for the return leg only. 
Peru’s Ministry of Culture has produced an excellent information leaflet in English. To download a PDF, go to machupicchu.gob.pe.
Dine like an Inca in the Sacred Valley. Cuzco has outlets of some of Lima’s best restaurants. Chicha, owned by Gastón Acurio, has superb food.

How much does it cost?

Entrance prices are in Peruvian soles, the symbol for which is S/. An adult ticket costs S/152 (£33), S/70 (£15) for minors and S/77 (£17) for ­students. It costs more if you want to include a hike up one of the surrounding mountains. Visit the government’s ticketing website, machupicchu.gob.pe, for the latest prices.

The best packages

Given the assortment of factors you’ll need to take into account when planning a trip to Machu Picchu – including the range of train and hiking options, the various circuits inside the site, and the ever-changing rules and regulations about time spent at there, follow-up visits and visitor numbers – booking with a tour operator is highly recommended.
Rainbow Tours has a 12-day Sacred Valley and Lares Adventure tour, including a lesser-known route to Machu Picchu through the Urubamba Valley and the remote passes of the Lares region. Travellers can meet farmers, weavers and high-altitude communities, discover local traditions and enjoy the incredible scenery while hiking from one comfortable mountain lodge to another. Additionally, visits to Ollantaytambo and Pisac are included before your arrival at Machu Picchu. From £3,985 per person, including accommodation, guided trekking, transfers, all flights, most meals and entry to Machu Picchu.
Cox & Kings offers a 15-day Train to Machu Picchu group tour that includes Cuzco and Arequipa, the Colca Canyon, Lake Titicaca and, of course, Machu Picchu, staying in good hotels. From £3,595 per person, including guides, entrance fees, all breakfasts, several other meals, transfers and flights.
Select Latin America has a 12-day Mountain Lodges of Peru tour, combining guided visits of Lima and Cuzco, six days of trekking and stays at the Mountain Lodges. From £5,005 per person, including accommodation, guided touring, private transfers, domestic flights, all breakfasts, and most other meals. International flights are not included. Allow a budget of £750-£1,000 for international flights.
Journey Latin America has an 11-day luxury tour to Peru that includes four nights at the Explora Lodge in the Sacred Valley, plus guided tours of Machu Picchu. From £7,189 per person, including international flights, transfers, excursions, touring Machu Picchu, first-class accommodation and most meals.

K  Adventure Travel has regular departures for its eight-day Inca Trail holiday, which includes the classic four-day hike. From £1,865 per person, including Cuzco and Machu Picchu, four nights’ hotel accommodation, three nights’ camping, and meals on the trek. Flights are not included; so you’ll need to budget £1,000 to £1,200 for these.

On a budget

To do Machu Picchu independently, you should budget at least £1,000 for flights, £500 for basic ­accommodation for 10 days in Lima, Cuzco and Machu Picchu, and transfers, a local guide and entrance fees. The Classic Inca Trail costs around £700 per person, including porterage, food and tent. There are competitively priced ­organised group tours to Peru, ­including the Inca Trail, from £2,300, minus flights. There are also bespoke tours to Peru from luxury operators costing £6,000 to £10,000.

What to pack

In the Andes, the sun is strong but you won’t necessarily feel hot. Take a good sun hat, sunblock and light, long-sleeved shirts and long trousers.
Wear stout hiking boots. If you ­usually need poles to walk, you might need them for the treks.
Insect repellent is essential, but malaria prophylaxis is not required unless you are also planning a trip to Iquitos and the Amazon region. See fitfortravel.nhs.uk for details.
Take a good map with you – ­available from stanfords.co.uk.

Know before you go